The Meat of the Matter

Once reserved for beef, the patty part of the build is open to lots of creative interpretation.

CHAPTER 1

The Meat of the Matter

MORE THAN ANY OTHER PART OF THE BUILD, IT’S THE PATTY THAT DEFINES THE BURGER

Said to have originated as a type of flat, seasoned-beef sausage in Hamburg, Germany, the hamburger sandwich sailed to the United States with European immigrants in the late 1800s and has been evolving ever since.

With burgers on 51.6% of menus, according to Datassential (ranging from 28.6% of fast-casual restaurants to 61.2% of fine dining),¹ it’s important to set this ubiquitous offering apart, and one of the easiest ways to do that is via the patty.

Beef is the benchmark burger protein, but there are many other possibilities, ranging from poultry (including chicken and turkey) to specialties such as pork, bison, salmon, lamb, and other kinds of seafood. Many operators will offer more than one type of patty, either as part of a mix-and-match build-your-own burger program, or in the form of curated signature burgers with their own carriers, toppings, and condiments.

Such patty variations tend to attract more adventurous or experimental diners, as well as consumers who are avoiding red meat or want a healthier option. They also add variety to the burger selection and give patrons a reason to visit more often.

Even within the standard of the typical beef burger, however, there is plenty of room for innovation. There is a growing trend to specify the type of beef used in a signature burger, and to use niche varieties such as Angus or Kobe beef. Burger makers are also developing blends of several different cuts, such as short rib and brisket, to amp up flavor and texture of the patties and convey a handcrafted image. These may be ground in-house, or even to order, and may be branded to a specific ranch or producer or to a well-known butcher or purveyor.

Another way to single out a premium burger is by calling out its sustainability, such as grass-fed, free-range, or locally raised beef.

The use of grass-fed beef on menus has grown 50.5% since 2016, and has particular appeal for health-focused diners and foodies.²

And then there’s the way the patty is prepared. Cooking the meat on a grill, a griddle, in a black iron pan, under a broiler, or over a live fire of wood or charcoal imparts different flavors and textures to the meat, and cooks who take their burgers seriously may be fierce proponents of one form of cooking over another.

In Portland, ME, the award-winning burger at East Ender is cold smoked over hardwood chips and griddled, then served on a housemade schmaltz bun. Another niche means of cooking that has its ardent fans is the smashed burger, in which portioned balls of ground meat are smashed flat with a heavy press of the spatula, which makes them crispy and craggy-surfaced. It turns out that Shake Shack’s oft-imitated burgers are smashed.

Developing a unique and craveable offering is often part of a success strategy in the burger category. Many operators, especially in chef-driven or full-service and destination restaurants, spend considerable time and energy developing their own “ultimate version” of a standard burger or cheeseburger, toggling with the patty as well as the bun and toppings to create their platonic ideal of this iconic menu item. That may mean a blend of two or more varieties of beef, a housemade bun, farmstead or locally made cheese, and upgraded condiments and toppings like aioli instead of mayo, finally shredded romaine instead of a leaf of regular lettuce.

But it’s also important to remember that an item as popular and familiar as a burger will have a fan following that can’t be messed with too much. Popular standards like a bacon cheeseburger or a BBQ burger, made with quality ingredients and care, will always have appeal.

86% of consumers love or like burgers, and they’re equally popular with all consumer types.¹

OPERATOR SPOTLIGHT
The Royale Magnificent Burgers, in Plano, TX, uses Angus beef for its regular patty, but also offers Kobe, bison, turkey, chicken, and salmon options, as well as a black bean veggie burger.

_{^{Sources: 1. Datassential SNAP! Burgers (2020). 2. Datassential SNAP! Grass-fed (2020).}}